We started our birding near the Sindhu Ghats and the Shey Marsh, acclimatizing to the thin air and enjoying the beautiful birds. Eurasian Hoopoes, Black Redstarts, and Eurasian Magpies were common, but we were also delighted to find plenty of Common Rosefinches, Lesser Whitethroats, Bluethroats, and Mountain Chiffchaffs sharing the same habitat. 

One frame fresh in my memory is of a Bluethroat singing on top of a bush with the mighty snow-capped mountains and a deep blue sky in the backdrop - just add the sound of rushing Sindhu waters and it was perfect. 

On the way, we also enjoyed the Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers, as well as the magnetic hill. But most of all, spiritual experience at Gurudwara Pathar Sahib is the one that I'll never forget.

28th June, Stay @ Leh.

Crossing our first pass, the Khardung La at 5,359 m was an exciting experience. Like all famous birding hotspots, it was crowded and we struggled to get clear frame for the mandatory snap at the pass. 

Khardung La is gateway to Shyok and Nubra Valley. For me personally the other side of Khardung La was more alluring as we entered the Shyok Valley, green landscape with fresh glacier streams dancing through the valley and decorated with clouds and snow capped mountains. Nubra valley, was totally different, like a vast desert, shades of brown and grey everywhere. 

We took a small trail birding off road, along a gushing water stream. Habitat was full of small shrubs, thorny dried bushes, where we saw the Red-fronted serin flaunting its fiery orange patch.

 Diskit Gompa was picturesque, but spending time among the hustle and bustle of the Hunder, Nubra Valley noisy tourists was not much fun except few Sand dune clicks. This location reinstated my liking for path less travelled.

29th Jun, Stay @ Hunder.

Wari La is undoubtedly one of the most stunning places to visit, standing at 5312 m (17427 ft). Travelling here was an awe-inspiring experience, and on our way, we stopped to search for the White-browed Tit-Warbler.  Every birding location here was mesmerizing, so much so that it was difficult to not get distracted by the grandiose mountains or the water glistening in the creeks. 

The White-browed Tit-Warbler definitely required our undivided attention though, making us keep our gaze fixed on the thick bushes in which it was hopping around. We had to bravely climb the slope up and down multiple times, which is quite a feat in Ladakh. This was the most vibrant bird I saw on my Ladakh trip.

30th Jun, Stay @ Kharu.

We were really on a roll today, crossing passes like an expert. We made it to Chan La @ 5,391 m (17,688 ft), a stunning secluded spot. 

The air was thin and chilly, but the exhilaration of spotting Tibetan snowcock on the hill side and Himalayan Snowcock on the valley side of the road gave us a thrilling feeling. Chukar Partridge were on the rocks, walking through the valley, on the edge of the road, going across. 

Just as we began to catch our breath, we saw a herd of blue sheep descend the cliff and a Little owl perched on a rock in the valley. I completely forgot about the frozen hands and the heavy breathing then and there. 

By the time we reached Pangong Tso, we were having a great time clicking pictures of Red-fronted Rosefinch foraging, White-throated Dipper, Horned Lark, Brown Accentor, Indian desert jird and Himalayan marmot. 

We followed the mesmerizing beauty of Pangong Tso and drove to Merak, away from the hustle and bustle. That route was like exploring nature's artwork of endless beauty.

1st Jul, Stay @ Merak.

Merak was a tranquil village nestled between towering mountains and Pangong Tso. The little meadows were abundant with birds, making it a prime spot for observing Black-headed Mountain Finch, Black-winged Snowfinch, Horned Lark, Hill Pigeon and Red-billed Chugh from the porch. 

Excitingly, we spotted Tibetan Sandgrouse, Robin Accentor and Citrine Wagtail during our evening trail in and around Merak.

2nd Jul, Stay @ Merak.

Taking the route from Merak to Hanle via Chusul was an unforgettable experience - a barren terrain with a heavy military presence. We eventually ascended to Tsaka La, which is 4,646m (15,242ft) above sea level and along the way, the path was gravel and rocky. 

What I will always remember is the sight of our national flag flying high at Rezang La War Memorial - a moment that will stay with me forever! 

On our journey, we were lucky enough to spot some birds like the Tickell's Leaf Warbler, the Tibetan Partridge, the Chinese Rubythroat, and the Twite.

3rd Jul, Stay @ Hanle.

It was like we were at the edge of the globe, something close to paradise. Hanle had it all - wetlands, marshes, rocky slopes and meadows. 

The marshes were home to the Black-necked Crane, Upland Buzzard, Saker Falcon, Tibetan Lark, and many other birds we had spotted earlier. Unfortunately, we were not able to locate the Eurasian Eagle-Owl. We were also lucky enough to witness the Pallas Cat, Kiang, Tibetan Wolf, and spend quality time with the Tibetan Sand Fox family. 

The night sky was simply breathtaking - glancing out of the homestay window, I could see stars dotting the sky. It made me feel humbled and grounded, realizing how minuscule we are in this vast universe. The life in Hanle was captivating, peaceful, as if you could get lost in time.

4th Jul, Stay @ Hanle.

Driving from Hanle to Tso Kar, passing the Pologongka La (4,972m), was a thrilling experience. The scenery became rocky and the dark clouds were gathering, we thought it would pour, but instead it all froze on the tops of the mountains, making them look like they were dusted with snow. 

I felt like Hanle was the edge of the world, until I arrived at Tso Kar. This place felt like a nomad's village, with basic accommodations and tents. My window looked out onto the vast, dried up Tso Kar, with the mountains in the background. 

That evening it rained, which made it the coldest and windiest night of all. I was lucky enough to see a pair of Upland Buzzard, Black-necked crane, Common Raven and Ground Tit.

4th Jul, Stay @ Tso Kar.

After departing from Tso Kar, we went over the Tanglang La pass which measured 5,328 metres (17,480 ft) and began our return trip to Leh. The roads were glorious, the mountains were as tall as ever, the sand was like that of a desert and the sky was a brilliant blue. I was definitely going to miss this. 

As we kept going on our last day of birdwatching, we made a stop near a grassland to experience some stunning moments with Blanford's Snowfinch. We were entranced by the sight of the nests on the ground. 

We sat in the damp earth, mesmerised, watching the Blanford's Snowfinch feed its fledglings. The parent would bring in food for the fledglings, then pick up the scraps and soar off. The chicks were moving around in the vicinity of the nest, grooming themselves, attempting to locate some seed on the ground or snuggling their siblings.

While they were busy with their feast there were Ladak pikas scurrying underground from one burrow to another, occasionally peeping out.

5th Jul, Stay @ Leh.